http://igor.chudov.com/projects/ <P> This is a list of my various projects. One project that is not here for historical reason, is this <A HREF=/tmp/onan/Diesel>restoration and repair of diesel Onan DJE generator</A>. I am also publishing a collection of my PDF (and scanned image) <A HREF=../manuals/>manuals</A>. All files there are very descriptively named. </P> <TABLE> <TR> <TD> en-us Copyright Protected 2008-11-15T06:03+00:00 webmaster@algebra.com webmaster@algebra.com 1901-01-01T00:00+00:00 12 hourly http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clausing-Colchester-13-36-Master-Lathe/02-Tooling-CleanUp <P> I picked up the tooling of this lathe, in advance of picking up the lathe itself. The lathe will be picked up in 10 days or so. This page details cleanup of it. For the most part, it is rusted, but looks a lot worse than it actually was, as the rust was mixed with dry grime and did not penetrate the parts too much. All the moving parts still moved, though with some hesitation. </P> <P> After cleaning, the drill chuck and the lathe chucks all operate nice and smoothly. </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clausing-Colchester-13-36-Master-Lathe/03-Cart-On-Casters <P> Cart on casters that I built for the <A HREF=../>Clausing Colchester lathe</A> that I bought. Each caster is rated for 2,400 lbs. The 1x4 planks are stapled to the 2x8 boards with 2 inch staples. The casters are bolted to the cart with grade 5, 3/8" bolts. </P> <P> The cart is 30x60 inches, which makes it 6 inches wider, and 4 inches shorter than the lathe. That will, I hope, enable it to hold the lathe securely and, and the same time, allow me to block the lathe and slide the cart underneath it. </P> <P> It has a lunette ring type attachment in front, that I made from an eyebolt. </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clausing-Colchester-13-36-Master-Lathe/04-Lathe-On-Cart <P> Stopped by the seller and put it on casters. Pickup will tentatively occur in 2 days. The whole operation took about 1 hour. Counting our fingers after this operation, revealed that we did not lose any fingers. </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clausing-Colchester-13-36-Master-Lathe/05-Homemade-Chuck-Key <P> I made this lathe chuck key (or lathe chuck wrench) from a Proto socket extension and a 3/8" round rod. Welded tiny blobs of metal on ends to prevent the round rod from falling out. </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clausing-Colchester-13-36-Master-Lathe/06-Transporting <P> I moved this lathe on my <A HREF=http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/>homemade trailer</A>. Loading and unloading was easy with a 3/4 ton ratchet hoist that was used for pulling the lathe in on the ramps, and at home for letting it down on the ramps slowly. The seller helped during loading, and I unloaded myself. The trip was uneventful. I had to tighten the straps once during my travel. </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clausing-Colchester-13-36-Master-Lathe/07-Cleanup-And-Reassembly ./Clausing-Colchester-13-36-Master-Lathe/07-Cleanup-And-Reassembly http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clausing-Colchester-13-36-Master-Lathe/08-On-Off-Switch <P> The ON/OFF/BRAKE lever on the lathe is not working. The way I understand it should work, is that in the rightmost (clockwise) position it should act as a brake, and if lifted up and turned counterclockwise, it should turn the lathe on. However, it does not do a good job and the lathe is always on regardless of the position of this lever. I can still turn the lathe off by manipulating the little lever in front of it (REV2/REV1/OFF/FWD1/FWD2) and switching from forward to neutral, but I feel that it is wrong and is a safety issue as the lathe sometimes needs to be turned off and braked instantly with one handf. </P> <P> On the back of the lathe, the big lever is connected to a steel bar. (the top one) This steel bar has a oblong hole for the brake engagement. <B>However, the screw for the brake falls out of this oblong hole</B>. The bar still engages the brake by acting on the side of the nut, however it does not feel right. </P> <P> The switch that should turn the lathe on and off, seems to be operated by the lower bar. The last photo shows that this bar should be permanently pulled up by a spring (see spring mounting pins) but the spring is missing. I believe that with the spring, the feel of the ON/OFF/BRAKE lever would be different and it would "click" as the dimples on these two bars engage and disengage. </P> <P> HOWEVER, and this is the crux of the problem, the limit switch that should be operated by the lower bar, does NOT open or close any contacts on the lines that lead into it from the main motor starter. </P> <P> I have a feeling that someone messed with this and bungled this issue. Has anyone seen anything similar? </P> <H3>Problem solved!</H3> <P> I finally understood what was wrong. My own reconstruction of what happened at some point prior to my lathe purchase, is as follows: the missing spring broke or was lost. Because of this, the lathe would not turn on. Then the dumbass who was fixing the lathe tried to rewire the starter. To no avail. Then he or she inserted red plastic blocks into the size 0 starter, therefore fixing it mechanically to be always on. </P> <P> When I realized the nature of these red plastic blocks, the fix was obvious: remove then, rewire the starter for a single non-momentary switch, and use a spring to fix the original mechanical problem. I was very lucky, because I had a nice coil spring assortment (pictured). </P> <P> <B>So, as of now, the problem is fully resolved and the ON/OFF/BRAKE switch works great!</B> </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clausing-Colchester-13-36-Master-Lathe/09-Y-Axis-Readout ./Clausing-Colchester-13-36-Master-Lathe/09-Y-Axis-Readout http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Onan-20kw-Generator-20.0DL4-15R ./Onan-20kw-Generator-20.0DL4-15R http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Onan-20kw-Generator-20.0DL4-15R/00-As-Purchased ./Onan-20kw-Generator-20.0DL4-15R/00-As-Purchased http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brobo-Super250-Baby-Cold-Saw <P> These pages show the 10 inch "baby cold saw", Brobo model Super 250. 250 stands for 250 millimeter blade. This is a full featured cold saw, with coolant pump, real vise, coolant reservoir, miter function, etc. But it is smaller than most cold saws. It weighs about 150 lbs, which means that I can <STRIKE>easily</STRIKE> carry it around. <HR> <IMG SRC=./-pic.jpg> </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brobo-Super250-Baby-Cold-Saw/01-As-Purchased ./Brobo-Super250-Baby-Cold-Saw/01-As-Purchased http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brobo-Super250-Baby-Cold-Saw/02-Cleaned-Up ./Brobo-Super250-Baby-Cold-Saw/02-Cleaned-Up http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brobo-Super250-Baby-Cold-Saw/03-Running ./Brobo-Super250-Baby-Cold-Saw/03-Running http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-Bridgeport-Mill/Uniq-DRO-Digital-Readout <P> This page shows how a Uniq DRO is installed on my Bridgeport mill. This is a THREE AXIS Uniq DRO. If you came here from a search engine wondering about how to install this DRO on your bridgeport, you can write me at igor AT chudov DOT com. </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-Bridgeport-Mill/Z-Axis-Powerfeed-ALSGS ./My-Bridgeport-Mill/Z-Axis-Powerfeed-ALSGS http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-Bridgeport-Mill/Z-Axis-Powerfeed-ALSGS/00-Shaft <P>This page shows the Z axis shaft. You can look at page 70 of <A HREF=../../Bridgeport-mill-manual.pdf>Bridgeport Mill Manual</A> for the exploded diagram. The shaft has item number 88 called "dial holder", which, I believe, needs to be removed. </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/15-Cabinet-Stand ./Welding/15-Cabinet-Stand http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/16-Cylinder-Lifting-Hook <P> I made this hook to lift gas cylinders by the holes in [thoroughly screwed on] cylinder caps. The requirements are that 1) the hook goes through even small holes 2) it grabs the cylinder very safely and 3) it stays well clear of the valve. I made this hook from a automotive grab hook that I found on the roadside, and a 12mm shank eyebolt. </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/17-Vise-Handle-With-Bearing-Balls <P> This is a replacement handle for a Wilton 1750 Tradesman vise. I made it from a 5/8 mild steel rod and 1" diameter bearing balls. They were TIG welded together using 410 stainless filler rod. Note that use of the filler rod was dictated by what I had, I am not saying that it is the best filler rod for this application. Since obviously this vise handle is not a critical weld, all that matters is that "the balls do not fall of under normal use" (pun intended). </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clausing-Colchester-13-36-Master-Lathe/10-Setting-Up ./Clausing-Colchester-13-36-Master-Lathe/10-Setting-Up http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/18-Oxygen-Vs-Plasma-Cutting <P> The pictures below show a 3/4" mild steel plate. On one end, I cut it with Oxy/Acetylene while visiting my friend. On another end, it was cut with a plasma cutter. The plasma cutter that I have is a big ugly three phase machine called Hypertherm Max 100. I am sure that I did a lousy job on both ends, but the plasma side is considerably smoother. </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/misc/Anvil ./misc/Anvil http://igor.chudov.com/projects/misc/Anvil/00-Purchased <P> I bought this anvil at Rock Island Arsenal from a liquidation auction. They decided to auction off entire contents of one huge building, because they wanted to renovate it. </P> <P> This anvil is 33 inches long and weighs approximately 340 lbs. I tried to measure rebound by dropping a 1 inch diameter hard bearing ball on it and measuring how high it would rebound. My best attempts at measurement ended up with rebound at 85-90%. <I><B>Update: after cleaning up the top surface, rebound improved to 90%</B></I>. </P> <P> This anvil came with a combination cast iron/wooden base. It also had a "shelf" that can be mounted in the pritchel hole. </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/misc/Anvil/01-Top-Cleaned-Up ./misc/Anvil/01-Top-Cleaned-Up